As part of our fabulous trip to Napa over Labor Day weekend we were treated to a meal at the French Laundry by Nan and Juan. They had gotten reservations by calling incessantly to get through the busy phone line exactly 2 months ago at 10 am when they opened. We arrived in Yountville a little early and walked around the huge garden across the street from the restaurant where they grow a large portion of their vegetables. At 7 pm we were ushered inside to our table, one of only 17 between two floors, in the corner of the dining room. Almost all the other tables we already seated and enjoying different parts of the nine-course tasting menu. Although it is a very high-end restaurant, the atmosphere is quite relaxed and comfortable. Our napkins had wooden clothes pins on them printed with “The French Laundry” which were ours to take home. The lampshades have laundry symbols (like those on clothing tags) imprinted on them.

We had a choice between two different nine-course meals, a “Chefs Tasting” or a “Tasting of Vegetables.” Well all chose the chefs tasting and made our choices for the nine courses. The staff was very attentive, explaining each dish, and making sure our glasses were never empty. Two of us requested still water while the other two requested sparkling. Two crafts were seated on the table that looked identical. Of the half dozen different waiters that serviced our table every single one of them already knew who had sparkling and who had still water and which craft was which. It is quite the well oiled operation.

Our courses started coming and what an experience. I tried many different foods I’ve never had (oysters, caviar, sweetbreads). Each one was meticulously plated and delicious. Each time a course was served a team of waiters would come to place them in front of us simultaneously. One would then explain the dish and bid us “Bon Appetit.” Some courses were served with freshly baked bread from the nearby Bouchon bakery that was very tasty. Here’s a listing of our nine courses. The menu changes daily although there are many regular/seasonal dishes.

“Oysters and Pearls”

“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar

____________

Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Palm

Summerset Peaches, Fennel, Pili Nut, Cilantro and Espelette “Aigre-Doux”

Moulard Duck “Foie Gras en Terrine”

Celery Relish, Marcona Almond “Génoise” and Concord Grape Purée

____________

Atlantic Cod “Confit à la Minute”

Summer Squash, Nicose Olive, Pine Nut, Greek Basil and Saffron “Nage”

Sashimi of Japanese Bluefin Tuna

Cauliflower, Haricot Verts, Country Bread Croutons and Anchoiade

____________

Sweet Butter-Poached Maine Lobster “Mitts”

Hobbs’ Bacon, Little Gem Lettuce, Baby Red Beets and Tarragon Creme Fraiche

____________

Four Story Hill Farm “Poularde”

Yukon Gold Potato “Mille-Feuille,” Pearl Onions, Melted Leeks and “Sauce aux Pruneaux D’Agen”

Marcho Farms Veal Sweetbreads

Green Tomato Chutney, Golden Corn, Watercress and “Ranch Dressing”

____________

Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Rib-Eye

“Collier d’Agneau,” Tokyo Turnips, Sugar Snap Peas, Chanterelle Mushrooms and Paloise Reduction

____________

“Abbaye de Tamié”

Artichokes, Piperade, Spanish Capers and Arugula

____________

Honeydew Melon Sorbet

Compressed Watermelon and Basil “Nuage”

____________

“Gâteau Saint Nizier au Manjari”

Mango-Chili Relish, Mast Brothers Cocoa Nibs, Lime Foam and Coconut Milk Sorbet

Lemon Verbena “Vacherin”

Tellicherry Pepper “Panna Cotta,” Lemon Verbena Sherbet and Chilled Silverado Trail Strawberry Consommé

____________

Mignardises

The oysters and caviar were interesting, I’d had neither before, but I don’t think I’ll be seeking them out to have again. Take it or leave it in my book. Everyone chose the Hearts of Palm salad for their second course, no foie gras (which I old recently learned how it is made…). For the third course we all chose the Bluefin shashimi and it was very, very good. Juan had the cod in place of the lobster course due to a shellfish allergy. The rest of us enjoyed the lobsters “mitts,” which is the lump of meat in the claw and is very different from the tail. I don’t enjoy the texture of lobster tail but the mitt texture was a little more crab-like and very good (although being poached in butter probably doesn’t hurt anything). The Hobbs’ bacon was a piece of very flat, cooked bacon. I tried to cut a piece off of it (I figured picking up the whole slice with my hand wasn’t the most refined thing) but the piece shot off my plate and onto the floor! No one noticed so I pretended like it didn’t happen!

For the fifth course Nan and I ordered the chicken and Griffin and Juan ordered the Sweetbreads. The chicken was amazingly moist, tender and delicious, the best I’ve ever had. We had to look up was “poularde” meant after dinner – it is a chicken that has been spayed to fatten it. The sweetbreads were interesting. I did NOT know what they were (brains) and even questioned Griffin as to why the “veal” was such a light color when he let me try some of his. He merely told me that “some parts” of the veal were that color and I was not aware that I was eating brains! They weren’t all the tasty and now that I know what they are I don’t think I’ll be having them again.

The lamb rib-eye for the sixth course was very, very good and was served with delicious bread from the bakery. It was followed by a small cheese course and then a honeydew sorbet. The sorbet was delicious with a basil sauce. For the ninth and final course we all chose the “Gâteau Saint Nizier au Manjari,” a flourless chocolate cake. Following the nine courses (as if that wasn’t enough) we were served mignardises with coffee. A small silver box with many different hand-made candies was brought to our table to share and servers brought trays with a selection of different chocolates. My favorites were a salted caramel chocolate and a white chocolate with a lemon, olive oil center. My this point we were all stuffed and had been there for almost four hours.

As a parting gift we were brought packaged shortbread cookies to bring home and enjoy. We also requested a copy of the menu to take home which they gave us in a specially embossed folder. The (hefty) bill came on a laundry tag, very cute.

Following dinner we enjoyed the small courtyard outside the restaurant. There were large windows into the kitchen where we could watch all the chefs at work. It really is quite the coordinated operation to deliver nine different courses (sometimes more) to each table timed perfectly and plated beautifully. A server saw us watching though the window and invited us in for a tour of the kitchen! He showed us were we could safely stand out of the way and explained the role of each of the chefs and stations. There are different chefs for fish, meat, sauces, and pasteries. They all must coordinate to deliver their components to the plating table in the center of the kitchen where the food is arranged for presentation and then whisked away by a server.

The entire experience was incredible. It wasn’t a meal, it was an experience. I’m pretty certain it is the fanciest meal I will ever eat and enjoyed in greatly and I know Griffin did as well. Many thanks to Nan and Juan for treating us!